September 26 - October 2 |
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Plant for winter color: pansies, violas, alyssum, primroses, stock and snapdragons will all brighten your garden this season. |
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Your lawn will do better during the winter months if you get rid of pests and diseases now. Dethatch or aerate if needed. |
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Watch for aphids on your chrysanthemums. Check with a nursery professional for the best non-toxic control. |
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When planting bulbs, be generous with the bonemeal. Place some at the bottom of the planting hole, add a little dirt and then the bulb so it doesn't touch the bonemeal |
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October 3 - 9 |
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Tend to the roses! Remove dead wood, twiggy growth, leaves with spots or mildew. Do not prune them now. |
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Feed camellias and azaleas lightly during the winter months to develop their blooms. |
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If you need a ground cover, plant it soon. If planted now, the root system will become established before spring arrives and growth accelerates. |
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Plant snapdragons for a bounty of color in your winter garden. |
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October 10 - 16 |
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Don't let dahlia bulbs stay in the ground during the winter. Lift them when the tops have dried. |
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Keep cleaning out the falling leaves from the flower beds to prevent pests and diseases from taking up residence. |
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3. |
Stop feeding garden roses now because they are heading into their dormant period. |
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October 17 - 23 |
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1. |
Remove the weeds as they crop up in bulb beds. Planting the beds with a cover of annuals such as pansies will keep the weeds to a minimum. |
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Lightly fertilize any bonsai if you didn't do so earlier this fall. |
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There's still time to plant bulbs. Consider putting some in containers so you can enjoy the flowers on your patio or by the front door. |
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October 24 - 31 |
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If the plants in your outside containers have died, don't put the pots on the shelf until spring-- plant your favorite annuals and perennials for fall and winter. |
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Cut back or even discontinue fertilizing your house plants as they start their winter dormancy. |
October Fillers
About 40 years ago, a transplanted Hollander, growing lilies in Oregon
thought it would be nice to have lily flowers that grew outward and upward.
Jan De Graaff developed these and they bloom in shades of yellow, orange
and red. They were called Mid-Century hybrids. Then, De Graaff crossed
two rather weak growers, the Goldband and Rubrum lilies from the Orient.
The results are vigorous stemmed lilies with huge flowers in combinations
of white and yellow, white with red specks, pink and white; red with darker
red spots on them. If you've never grown lilies, just try some of these
modern hardy varieties. Your original investment pays off in increased
bulbs every year. Lilies like to remain undisturbed, so just give them their
place in the sun, water during the summer and let them bloom June
through August.
Fall is the ideal time to seed a lawn. Prepare the seedbed according to
the advice of a California Certified Nursery Professional™ before sowing
the seed. Water regularly until the grass blades become "bushy" and
about three inches tall. Four weeks or so after planting, you should be able
to mow your new lawn. Allow soil to become firm and fairly dry before
mowing in order to avoid damaging the new lawn with the mower wheels.
If you live in the mountains, keep in mind the following tips on protecting
your plants from the heavy snowfalls that are coming soon. Don't break
ice off branches and leaves because part of the plant may come off too. If
the weight of the ice endangers a shrub, throw tepid water on it IF the
temperature goes above freezing during the day. Instead of encasing
tender plants in plastic, (which can cause damage from overheating)
loosely cover the plant with burlap or sheeting. Don't use salt on icy paving
if it can later wash down into plant roots. Use pumice or sand instead. To
hold branches together on upright-branching shrubs such as boxwood, tie
them up with a rope or strips of cloth. For lack of anything else, boughs of
cedar or fir can give quick protection when the temperature falls.
If you have oak trees and are planning on using the leaves for a compost
pile, make a separate pile for them. Put the oak leaves on one pile
because they are acidic and compost from them can be used on azaleas,
mountain laurel, rhododendrons and conifers. Leaves from other trees
should be place on the second pile. A leaf compost should be built in
layers. Sprinkle a little fertilizer, lime and soil over each layer of leaves.
Water it down with a hose and occasionally turn the piles to encourage the
break down process.
Start garden maintenance in October; rake up leaves frequently so they
don't have a chance to smother the lawn and provide a home for pests in
flower beds. Remember that diseased or mildewed leaves should be
discarded and not thrown into the compost pile. Their fungus spores will
carry over into the next season and possibly cause problems elsewhere in
the garden. If you take care of this on a regular basis it will save you from
doing a major cleanup later.
Shrubs planted now will get a good head start as the soil in October and
November is still warm enough to encourage vigorous root growth and at
the same time, cooler temperatures above ground make it easier on the
plants. When the cold weather does set in along with the rains, their roots
will keep on growing and the plants will become well established. They will
reward you next spring with a big show of new growth. Fall planted trees
and shrubs will have developed a strong root system to support the new
growth. You'll also find that fall planted shrubs don't suffer in the summer
heat.
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